Pashmina or Pashm is a Persian word which means “soft gold”. It accentuates and emphasizes the weather of softness, featherlight and eternal warmth, making it really as precious and priceless like gold. It’s a fine product attained from a breed of goats known as Chanthangi goat, which are reared within the Tibetan space of 4000 meters in winter. The wool from this goat is specifically obtained from the undercoat of those goats. It is six instances finer than any animal hair, so fine the wool needs to be hand-spun by a skilled crafter, not by machines, which makes it uncommon and costly.
The Pashmina shawls existence has been from the Indus Valley civilization 3300 BC to Mohenjo Daro 2500 BC. What unfolded was when a well-known priest of that era’s trefoil patterns was unveiled. Pashminas have been worn by the royals and elites for centuries. Many common aristocrats who were in love with this fabric, naming few were Akbar, Jehangir and Josephine (spouse of Napoleon). It grew to become so common when Napoleon discovered Pashmina, he gifted it to his spouse Josephine. She was so pleased with the material that she requested her husband to buy some more so she might reward it to her friends. She was known to have collected more than 400 wraps over the span of 3 years. That’s when it became a style assertion among the many Europeans. Centuries later it got here into limelight when Princess Dianna started wearing them. And now, the Hollywood celebrities are spotted wearing this lovely yarn.
The fifteenth century ruler of Kashmir, Zayn- Ul- Abidin who’s the founding father of the Pashmina industry introduced weavers from central Asia the place it was already in use as luxury textile. Over the years a large number of shawls had been launched relying on the art, culture and availability of handicrafts. A large part of this was dominated by the place this craft was being practiced at.
Undoubtedly its durability might be affirmed from the royal families that handed them down for generations. However in at this time’s date, one does not have to be regal to own a pashmina scarf, and even visit the high altitudes of Indian Kashmir, Pakistan and Nepal. At right now’s date they’re available at meritorious stores. The members of fashion fraternity round world use and own products made of pashmina ranging from scarves, wraps, coats, pashmina shawls and stoles. It is a mark of the social and financial status.
Process of Making Pashmina Thread
Animals shed their undercoat during spring molting season that’s when Pashmina is collected. Thee goats start molting anytime from February to late Might relying upon the weather circumstances and region.
In India, the most important methodology of harvesting pashmina is combing . It is done with the usage of a particular type of comb. Pashmina is manually dusted to remove impurities like sand, mud, and so forth that could be stuck to it. The fleece is then sorted as per the color. The natural colours of the fiber being white, gray which is combined with darker shades like browns. The quality of the fiber primarily depends on its fineness, size, coloration and down fiber content. Finer, longer and white pashmina generates higher value as compared to coarser, colored and shorter fiber.
The pashmina procurement is completed from all Changthangi Pashmina growers Association in Leh Ladakh in India. The key chunk of which is sold and sent to Srinagar and Kullu Valley for utilization. Subsequently in India raw pashmina fiber is 10-15 times more costly than crossbred fine wool.
Pashmina is collected in the course of the spring season when the goats naturally shed their winter coat. In dehairing, goats are combed to get the fine woolen undercoat hair. Goats usually produce double fleece which is mixture of fine hair and guard hair. Fine hair are separated by both by combing out the down or by using particular equipments. The guard hair is removed completely earlier than processing. The presence of more than 5% guard hair impacts the looks, deal with and quality of the final products.
The wool is collected and undergoes the hand spinning process. The fiber is spun on a spinning wheel additionally known as Charkha locally known as yander. Earlier than undergoing the spinning, raw materials is handled by stretching and cleaning with the intention to remove all of the dirt. Then it is soaked for a few days in a blend of rice and water in order to reinforce its softness. Hand-spinning is a time consuming and painstaking process which requires loads of dedication and patience.
Pashmina wool is a highly delicate material. The vibrations caused by the ability looms might be damaging to its fiber. Therefore, weaving of the customary 100% Pashmina Shawls is done available looms. Weaving, which in itself is an art type, is finished using a shuttle. This artwork has been passed over from generation to generation. A single shawl takes about four to 5 days to weave on a handloom.
Like spinning, dyeing is also performed by hand. Azo-free and metal free dyes are used through the process to make these eco-friendly shawls. Pure water is pumped up from deep beneath the surface and dyeing is done at a temperature just below the boiling level of water for around an hour.
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